ONE OF THE ROCKER ADJUSTING NUTS BROKE IN HALF AT THE END OF THE LOCKING SET SCREW. THIS ALLOWED THE REMAINDER OF THE NUT TO GRADUALLY BACK OFF UNTIL IT STARTED TO TAP. AFTER IT GOT LOOSE ENOUGH TO START TAPPING IT UNSCREWED QUICKLY AND LET THE PUSHROD SLIP OUT FORM UNDER THE ROCKER, RAISING ALL KIND OF HELL IN THE MEAN TIME.
THE PROBLEM WAS ON THE INTAKE VALVE OF CYLINDER #3 ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.
I REPLACED AND ADJUSTED THE ONE NUT AND THE SLIGHTLY BENT PUSH ROD BY THE INSTRUCTIONS. I MAGNAFLUXED THE REST OF THE NUTS AND THE ONE EXPOSED STUD FOR CRACKS AND FOUND NONE. I INSPECTED BOTH BANKS AND FOUND NO FLAWS IN THE STEEL OR THE QUALITY OF WORK DONE BY YOU GUYS.
THE ENGINE PERFORMS BETTER THAN IT EVER HAS SINCE I GOT IT BACK FROM THE BODY/PAINT SHOP. IDLE SPEED STAYS SET AND THROTTLE RESPONSE IS IMMEDIATE WITH AMAZING POWER. I JUST LOVE IT! THE CAR IS A LOT OF FUN TO DRIVE. I PUT ABOUT 60 MILES ON IT THIS WEEK END WITH NO PROBLEMS.
APPARENTLY I HAVE HAD ONE VALVE GETTING, GRADUALLY, MORE AND MORE OUT OF ADJUSTMENT FOR A WHILE.
I APPRECIATE ALL YOUR SUPPORT THRU THIS PROBLEM AND I WILL RECOMMEND YOU ENGINES HIGHLY.
I finally chased down the problem to a ground wire on my distributor that was connected to the negative post of the coil. I called Pertronix and was finally connected to their head office technician. As it turns out, I’m not supposed to have a fuse in the coil circuit – I was told to just run the wire directly from the ignition switch to the coil’s positive terminal. I confirmed it with Factory FIve’s wiring harness manufacturer (Ron Francis) and Factory Five (Dan), which originally specified the fuse because it’s apparently required for Mustang engine installations.
I really appreciate the support that everyone at Engine Factory provided. As a novice, I just didn’t know the right questions to ask.